Tales from Istanbul

If the world was a single state, Istanbul would be its capital.

-Napoleon Bonaparte

It seems only fitting that I travel from the city where Constantine issued his famous Edict (of Milan) to the city which took his name, Constantinople. Of course, there was a lot more to this city than just its Roman and Byzantine history. A lot more.

The idea of Istanbul as a meeting point between East and West has been discussed in travel books ad nauseum, but it is worth repeating. Istanbul has a touch of Roman culture (but not efficiency), tons of Byzantine art (way too many gold mosaics), Ottoman luxury (palaces galore), and Turkish confusion (Muslim? Secular?). Here are some of my thoughts from Istanbul.

*I apologize for the lack of pictures. My camera was stolen in Istanbul and I haven't developed my disposables yet*

Asia
Flying into Sabiha airport marked my first time on the Asian continent (Japan doesn't really count). Although I spent most of my time across the Bosporus in Europe, it was very interesting seeing the Asian side because it gave fresh insight into "modern" Istanbul. The predominantly residential Asian side had everything from crumbling buildings to modern high rises.

What's in a name?
In Istanbul (or should I say Constantinople?) the name is everything. Names are just a part of the larger Christian/Western and Muslim/Eastern symbolic divide. Nowhere else is this better displayed in the supposedly "progressive" basilica/mosque/museum Hagia Sofia (definitely one of the most beautiful churches in the world). A secular museum supposed to represent modern religious tolerance, the Ayasofya (as its called by Turks) contains large shield-like signs that are chained to the corners of the buildings on the upper levels. These severely out of place shields have Muslim Arabic writings on them- a final middle finger to Christians and secularists alike. It was supposed to be a building displaying cooperation and tolerance, but I didn't get a warm, fuzzy feeling when I looked around.

Islam
Turkey was my first time in a predominantly Muslim country. I could've guessed this when I passed several mosques my first night in the city, but it didn't hit home until the next morning, when I was woken by the Blue Mosque's call to prayer. Each of the next two mornings I would be woken up by that call to prayer. I kind of enjoyed it- it was sooo relaxing. I toured several of the famous mosques, but found them lacking the artistic splendor inside many famous churches. Instead of patronized side chapels or decorated apses, I found immense chambers with nothing but columns and carpet. The architectural splendor of the mosques came on the outside of the buildings with the minarets. From Sultanhamet, I could see 1, 2, 4, and even 6 minarets popping up throughout the city to mark a mosque. In Italy, we have a saying "for every church in Rome, there's a bank in Milan." Maybe they should add "and a mosque in Istanbul."

Men
Perhaps it was when the postcard salesman gave Saida, Emily, and I free postcards... or maybe it was later when he offered 3 camels for the two of them... no, I think it was later- when I played the role of Emily's tea obsessed brother and allowed her to be wooed by this 30 something Turkish guy in the Grand Bazaar- that I realized how hilariously shallow Turkish males are. Je n'aimmmmme he would keep saying to her. Haha, even now I can't help but laugh when I remember poor Emily being led- in hand- through the Grand Bazaar by this guy. Maybe she doesn't remember it as fondly as I do? Emily, take solace in the fact that the guy eventually offered me 4 camels for you! The novelty eventually wore off, however, and we faked many different relationships to try to ward off unwanted advances. Even when I was her "brother" they would come up to us and pay "compliments" to her through me! The day after Em left, I was still being stopped on the street by restaurant hosts and salespeople asking me about Emily. You can imagine, I bet, why Istanbul may not be at the top of Western women's travel lists. My last night at the hostel, I ran into this Aussie teenager who had finally had enough of their rude manners- she went off on this Turkish guy in the street!

Food
I make it a point, on all of my trips, to try the national dish and other famous local cuisine. And, although Tortilla Espanol, Couscous, the Potato Brownie, and Haggis were all very tasty, the Turkish kebab was my favorite. In fact, other than Italian food, Turkish food was my favorite. I think one of the reasons I liked it so much was the fact that it fit my lifestyle so well- it was cheap, portable, and very good. Every country I have visited had great dishes, but Turkey offered such great food right off of the street. Kebabs were the centerpiece, but ayran and baklava were also great treats.

Favorite Activity
Taking a boat tour of the Bosporus. We started on the Golden Horn, went up the European side and down the Asian side. The views were spectacular, the atmosphere was tranquil, and the weather was amazing.

Favorite Place
My favorite "spot" in Istanbul and one of my all time favorites is in the park between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. It's really amazing at night to stand between these incredible buildings lit up!

Most Memorable Moment
This is definitely a tie between the Grand Bazaar and the Kurdish carpet salesman. On my last day, I wandered around the Grand Bazaar. I happened to run into this salesman who instantly recognized me as an English speaker. He asked me if he could run a couple English phrases past me. I agreed. A half hour later, I was still sitting on this stool in the Grand Bazaar, giving this guy an English lesson. What may have seemed like a weird way to spend time paid off, however, when he sold me an expensive Turkish tea set for 6 USD.

The other amazing moment was actually a collection of them. The second day in Istanbul, Emily and I were walking around our local neighborhood when someone said, in very good English, "you must be Americans." We were so astonished that a Turk had spoke our language so nonchalantly we immediately turned around. That's when we met Mehmet, a Kurdish carpet salesman (if you need a good Turkish carpet he can hook you up). Over the next 3 days, Mehmet invited me into his store 3 times for free tea. We talked about Seattle (where he lived for a year), the US, Turkey, Kurds, Americans, and family. He even took me out to coffee once. Now that was hospitality!