A pleasant SAS flight brought me directly to Milano from Oslo (too bad I didn't have to connect through Copenhagen). For reasons I will explain later, the airport was packed. So, I quickly grabbed my bags and bought a train ticket (my first spoken Italian) for the city center. The train ride was my first glimpse of my new home. I quickly ascertained that I wasn't in Norway anymore. Whereas Norway's topography had mountains, rivers, and fjords, Milan was located at the heart of the "Pianura Padana" (Po River Valley). Lush green fields stretched out in all directions. In fact, Milano isn't even on the Po River. Much like Atlanta, Milan's development is due to its strategic location on the road and train networks.
Once I reached Milan's Cadorna station, I boarded the subway for the Gambino's. About a week earlier, I had emailed my friend, Justin Gambino, to see if he could recommend a place to stay while I searched for housing. Justin, who attends Emory but lives in Milan, told me I was welcome at his house. What a welcoming I received! The Gambinos were the most gracious hosts. They treated me to some of the best homemade food in Italy, as well as some of the best restaurants in Milan. The whole time, they treated me like a son (quite literally in fact- I slept in Justin's room). Mrs. Gambino has a "matter of fact" personality and self-confidence that one can't describe- so addictive that everyone she meets is drawn to her. Mr. Gambino and Justin's younger brother, Michael, were awesome as well. Mr. Gambino is so proud of his Italy and Michael couldn't wait to show me around his hometown. Their only fault? They are Juventus fans. Since leaving the Gambino's house, I have returned for two dinners. No doubt I will include the Gambinos in later blog posts- they have truly become a host family to me.
The first time I experienced "culture shock" (albeit a small amount) was when Michael said, "I'm sorry, but Milan is empty." Having arrived on Saturday, I had expected to get up on Sunday and get started searching for an apartment. Sundays in Milan, however, are very slow. Most stores are closed and large supermarkets are only open for limited hours. I was amazed to find that such practices were still in use in the modern North. In addition to this, it was the end of August. At first, that didn't mean much to me, but I quickly came to understand that the whole city takes the month of August "off." In other words, the whole city empties for a whole month! It's incredible! Italians really do know how to enjoy life. That is why the airport was so busy- everyone was coming back from "vacanze."
During that first week, I scrambled to find an apartment, explore Milan, register at Bocconi, and take care of necessary errands that are taken for granted at home (finding a phone and headset, for example, took days). With the Gambino's help, I was able to successfully complete or bypass most of the red tape that Italy so generously ties visitors with. I also became quite adept at learning the public transportation network of Milan (it's huge!). A knowledge and map of the system continue to pay dividends today.
The most difficult part of that first week was finding an apartment. I went to Bocconi (twice) to find available apartments. I must have called over 30 phone number but to no avail. Heck, I even managed to memorize my written Italian statement that I read to potential renters. "Disponibile" (available) was the key word and every time they replied that the apartment was not available. The housing market around campus was so difficult that the only rooms you could find cost 800euros/month!
In the middle of the week, I started my Italian "crash course" (I am proud to say that I have just received word that I passed my B1 level exam). The well organized program meant to help incoming exchange students of all Italian levels improve their language skills. I had taken an entry exam and had been placed in a class. After a couple hours of lecture, I asked for a transfer into a slightly higher level. My teacher asked for my name and I responded, "Benedict, come il Papa (Pope)." My teacher, however, must not have understood because she wrote as my "cognome" Come il Papa. Lol. My new teacher and I had a good laugh about that one. The course was very intense. Classes lasted 4-6 hours/day, except for the Saturday classes, which were longer. I definitely improved my Italian. I quickly noticed in my class how much easier it was for Spanish, French, and Portuguese speaking students to improvise Italian that it was for me. Stupid Germanic languages...
In class, I was fortunate to find a classmate that wanted to switch out of his university housing. In an extraordinary case of good fortune, I found a spot in a mostly Italian dorm near campus! I have my own single room and share a bathroom with a great Italian friend from Rome. The dorm was recently remodeled in "minimalism" style and, apart from its inability to retain heat, is a beautiful dorm. My window opens north towards the city center. I can see a 13th C church bell tower! We have our own kitchen facilities (where, in true Italian style, I have made most of my friends). The people here are great and they've been very welcoming (even if the dorm is our equivalent of an upperclassmen/graduate dorm). I'm one of only 3 North Americans in the dorm! On a slightly related note, I was recently approached by a Serbian girl that lives down the hall. It seems she is going to Emory next semester on exchange! What a small world!
After the first week and a half of the "crash course," my regular classes began and the Italian course switched to a night course. I am taking Financial Economics (Investments), Business Strategy, Economic History, and International Demography. The first two are for the bschool, the last two for my International Studies major. I found myself caught in a familiar place- loving the classes that were less important (Econ History and Int'l Demography). It will be a difficult semester for this reason and because my entire course grade in Italy determined by 1 or 2 final exams. December will not be a very fun month...
A quick note on Italian universities. Most Italian Universities (including Bocconi) do not have "campuses." In fact, even prestigious Bocconi's campus is nothing more than a couple plain buildings near each other. More and more, their universities are trying to copy our system with financial fundraising- a new phenomenon, so called "student life," and alumni programs. The only true centers of the university are smoking areas (yes, it's very popular over here) and the cafeteria. The cafeteria, by the way, has amazing pizza! In this way, the "campus" of Italian universities is the city itself. The student life revolves around the local districts (Navigli, Colonne, Duomo, etc.). No wonder Italian exchange students find Emory such a foreign environment! The only American styled "campus" I have seen in Milan is the beautiful Cattolica Universita' campus. But they had to renovate a 14th century monastery to get their campus!
Saturday, October 11, 2008
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